MEM samurai is the most ecological clothing collection in the world
It gives me great joy to introduce this eco design collection to you. Because it is, by far, one of the best efforts in sustainable fashion I have seen in a long time. And, because I´ve had the pleasure and privilege of watching its creative process up-close. Ladies and Gentlemen, the worlds most ecological clothing collection has been made in Helsinki! It is a contemporary collection titled MEM ”SAMURAI” and it has been designed by the founder of a Helsinki based eco fashion ateljé Remake EkoDesign, my colleague and Master Seamstress Paula Malleus.
Using recycled materials as the only raw material saves thousands and hundreds of kilos and liters of natural resources. All of the items in MEM Samurai collection have been manufactured from post consumer waste, so the MIPS* figures for the products are outstanding. For instance, the water saving for TORI evening gown is 32 707 liters, which equals one person’s drinking waters of 60 years**. Water saving figures of each collection piece can be found at the end of this post.
Commercial fashion can hardly become any more unique and ecological than this. This womenswear collection is made entirely of old, used jeans, collected locally from Finnish consumers as second hand (100% post consumer waste), which makes it more ecological than using organic materials or pre consumer waste (industry cut waste, dead stock fabrics), which are the materials that most eco fashion designers use.
Paula Malleus is the first Master Seamstress in Finland focused entirely in recycle fashion. Her Remake EkoDesign atelier has operated in Helsinki since 2007. The main objective of the atelier work has been to introduce an entirely new, more ecological business model and manufacturing method to serial produced clothing in Finland.
”One should focus on responsible methods and using more recycled materials in mass production without compromising style. The equation is not easy, especially when the material is old and used clothes, but it is not impossible. This collection is the outcome of two years of creative work and research, because upcycle fashion should focus on design. MEM clothing line consists of timeless pieces, but it also serves as a universal business model for clothes-to-clothes serial manufacturing,” Paula says of the creative process.
Paula has over 10 years experience of ecological fashion customizing and atelier work. Her experience can be seen in the fit, functionality and design of the collection. Meticulously designed MEM clothes can be worn by different body types, sizes and are suitable to a variety of occasions.
Japanese samurai dress and armor were the main inspirations for the collection. The cuts of the clothes are angular, but the silhouettes in the outfits are soft and simplified. All of the products are sewn and printed in Helsinki, and the denim material from old, used jeans is collected from Finnish consumers.
Water savings per MEM Samurai pieces:
“KURIN” sleeveless top 8 200 l
“WAIDO” wide trousers 20 400 l
“TAITO” high waisted tapered trousers 14 300 l
“KAPE” kimono jacket 12 200 l
“TERU” double-hemmed jacket n. 8 100 l
“SAME” knee-length skirt 14 300 l
“KOHANI” maxi-length skirt 20 400 l
“NOBASA” dress tunic 12 200 l
“TORI” evening gown 32 700 l
*) MIPS is a figure for eco-efficiency which is used to show how much natural resources are needed to produce a service or product. It is shortened from the words Material input per unit of service. MIPS is used to compare different products and their ecological impact. Read more about it here, here and here.
**) It is estimated that one person’s drinking water consumption is an average of 1.5 liters per day.